Types of Weaves

Plain  Weave

  • Most simple and most common type of construction
  • Inexpensive to produce, durable
  • Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes
  • Method of Construction : Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns
    Common Fabrics : Cotton calicos, cheesecloth, gingham, percale, voile
    Common Uses : Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery

    Basket Weave

  • A variation of the plain weave
  • Usually basket or checkerboard pattern
  • Contrasting colors are often used
  • Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave
  • Method of Construction : Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings
    Common Fabrics : Monks cloth, oxford
    Common Uses : Wall hangings, pillows

    Twill Weave

  • Creates a diagonal, chevron, hound’s-tooth, corkscrew, or other design
  • The design is enhanced with colored yarn
  • Is strong and may develop a shine
  • Method of Construction : Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left.

    Common Fabrics : Denim, gabardine, serge, tweed

    Common Uses : Upholstery, comforters, pillows

    Satin Weave

  • Smooth, soft luster
  • Excellent drapability
  • Floats snag easily
  • Method of Construction: Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face

    Common Fabrics : Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton.

    Common Uses : Draperies, quilts

    Jacquard Weave

  • Yarns woven into unlimited designs, often intricate, multicolor effect
  • Expensive, but the design does not fade or wear out
  • Durability depends on the fiber used
  • The Jacquard loom was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard
  • Method of Construction : Warp is individually controlled with each pick passage creating intricate design.

    Common Fabrics: Brocade, damask, tapestry

    Common Uses: Upholstery, wall hangings

    Leno Weave

  • A mesh-like fabric
  • Method of Construction: A pair of warp threads is passed over and under the filling yarns in a figure 8 or an hourglass twist, creating a geometric pattern

    Common Uses: Thermal Blankets, curtains

    Knit Weave

  • Soft, stretchy
  • Method of Construction: Interlooping yarns

    - In weft knitting, loops are formed by hand or machine as yarn is added in crosswise direction.

    - In warp knitting, loops are formed vertically by machine, one row at a time

    Common Fabrics: Raschel warp knits

    Common Uses: Not used extensively in design with the exception of raschel warp knits which are used in making curtains and draperies

    Uncut pile

  • • Loops are possible on both sides of fabric
  • • Soft and absorbent, relatively inexpensive
  • • Can snag if loops are caught
  • Method of Construction: Generally, a plain or twill weave with a third dimension–additional warp yarn or filling yarn is introduced into the basic structure and forms a loop at regular intervals.

    Common Fabrics : Frieze, terry cloth

    Common Uses : Upholstery, towels, carpet, area rugs

    Cut Pile

  • • Soft and warm, resilient, absorbent
  • • May have a nap that must be matched
  • • May be expensive and need professional cleaning
  • Method of Construction: Similar to uncut pile, but loops have been cut

    Common Fabrics: Corduroy, velvet, velveteen

    Common Uses: Upholstery, stage draperies

    Non-woven

  • Does not have a distinct pattern
  • Generally stiff and somewhat scratchy
  • Common Fabrics: Pelon

    Common Uses: Bedding, backing for quilts, dust cloths for box springs, carpet backing, and upholstered furniture

    Felt

  • Soft, non-woven, can pull apart
  • Method of Construction: Felting occurs when heat, moisture, agitation, and pressure are applied to wool fibers, causing the fibers to interlock permanently.

    Common Fabrics: Felt

    Common Uses: Padding, sound-proofing, insulation, filtering, and polishing, wall hangings and other decorative items

    Film

  • Plastic-like material, repels liquid, stiff
  • Mildews, rots, tears
  • Inexpensive, fairly durable
  • Method of Construction: Made from synthetic solutions formed into thin sheets

    Common Fabrics: Vinyl

    Common Uses: Tablecloths, shower curtains, draperies, upholstery, and wall coverings

    Foam

  • Soft, air holes, absorbent, resilient
  • Method of Construction: Rubber or polyurethane substance with air incorporated causing foaming, quite inexpensive, rots

    Common Fabrics: Sponges

    Common Uses : Carpet backing, padding, pillows and cushions, laminates to other fabrics