Rajesh on 09 Sep 2008
Denim Glossary
Abraded
escribes the battering jeans go through to achieve a vintage look.
Abrasion : Wet processes to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface, causing abrasion. Pumice stones are used most frequently.
Azoic dyes : Insoluble pigments performed within the fiber by padding, first with a soluble coupling compound and then with a diazotized base.
Baking : Treating jeans with a resin, then putting them in an oven so chemicals can merge with fibers to add color, stiffness, and make creases permanent.
Bleaching : An industrial finishing process that takes off natural and artificial impurities from the yarn or fabric. Also, a process for laundries to make jeans fade.
Broken Twill : Combines the left- and right-hand twill fabric weaving processes (see definitions for both, below) to create more texture and help the fabric retain its shape.
Broken twill : The diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally interrupted to form a random design.
Carding : A process in which cotton is combed to remove extraneous fibers, trash and neps. Fibers are then oriented in a parallel manner and packaged to be processed further.
Fit block : The pattern each designer uses to create his or her signature silhouette.
Global Sanding : Using hand or power sanding tools to abrade an individual pair of jeans.
Hand : The feel of the denim, from soft to coarse.
Hand Tacking : Hand sewing tucks and flaps so certain areas fade less during laundering.
Left-Hand Twill : Fabric woven to the left, a more intricate process that produces a suppler product than right-hand twill.
Right-Hand Twill : Fabric woven to the right. More common and easier to manufacture, but often not as soft as left-hand twill.
Ring Spinning : An older method of machine spinning cotton into yarn with an emphasis on twisting, not just stretching the fibers; slower and more expensive, but produces stronger cotton.
Rinse Denim : Raw fabric that has no washing procedure and is simply rinsed before arriving at the store; produces the toughest jeans.
Rise : The length of fabric from the crotch seam to the top (or, depending on the maker, sometimes the bottom) of the waistband; one label’s seven-inch rise may be slightly higher or lower than the other’s, so always try them on.
Selvedge : The reinforced edge of a bolt of denim fabric, which is woven so that it won’t unravel; this super-durable edging is now highly desirable when making couture jeans.
Slubby : A term applied to cotton yarn that is less smooth, more textured with nubs and character.
Stitch Count : The number of stitches per inch on the jean’s seams; 12 stitches per inch takes longer to sew and uses more thread than, say, 8 stitches per inch, but makes the seam stronger.
Stone Wash : Stones (usually pumice stones) put in the wash to soften the fabric.
Sundries : Extras like metal rivets, Swarovski crystals and decorative stitching on the back pocket.
Tear-and-Repair : An aging technique that involves taking a screwdriver or other tool and tearing small holes in the jeans then sewing them closed.
Wash : The color and texture produced by the finishing process of washing the jean; creates varying results, such as an aged appearance or enhanced softness and can include applying colored dye and resin.
Weight : The lightness or heaviness of the denim. Approximately 8 ounces is a breezy, 14 ounces is on the hefty side.
Whiskers : The flattering wrinkles around the crotch of the jeans. Sometimes behind the knees, too; called a “moustache” in Europe.
